The Vineyards of Burgundy

Posted 26th May 2001

Burgundy, Beaujollais, Bordeaux, and Chianti are names synonymous with wine. The area in France between Lyons and Dijon contain two of these great wine-growing districts – Beaujollais and Burgundy.

Twelve months ago we were fortunate to spend a week in Burgundy. For those who may be interested, a few notes on the area follow.

Burgundy has many vineyards spread over a large and geographically varied region, numerous appellations, hundreds of climats (named winegrowing plots) and wines differing significantly in style from one grower to another, and a seemingly infinite range of colors, tastes and aromas. Chablis in the northwest is about an hour from Paris. Mâcon, the southernmost town of the region, is about an hour north of Lyon. Between the two towns are about 25,000 hectares of vineyards, divided into five main districts, each with its own character and personality.

The AOC (Appellations d’Origine Contrôlées – literally (“controlled place of origin”) recognizes 96 distinct appellations within the Burgundy region. AOC is a term appearing on French wine labels, not only guaranteeing the authenticity of the place from where the wine came, but also indicative of the quality standards of that area.

Appellations are grouped into four categories according to quality and place of origin. The general rule is: the higher the quality, the more precisely localized place of origin.

Regional Appellations
22 appellations 67,500,000 liters 54% of production

This grouping comprises all those wines that have BOURGOGNE in their appellation. It includes:
wines that may be grown anywhere within the BOURGOGNE wine-growing area;
Wines produced in a specified district within the overall region
e.g. Mâcon, Bourgogne Chitry; and
wines that include a mention of grape-variety, colour or vinification.

Communal Appellations
41 appellations 42,500,000 liters 34% of production

Certain villages that are recognized as consistently producing wines of superior quality, and have the right to give the name of the village to the wine grown there. Some appellations such as Chablis or Pouilly-Fuissé, though named after a single village, may also be grown on the territory of certain adjoining villages.

Premiers Crus
561 climats classed as premier 13,000,000 liters
10% of production

Wines grown from some climats or named plots within a village’s production area are recognized as having their own typicality and high quality. These plots are accorded the classification as Premier Cru. The labels for these wines bear the name of the village, followed by the words “Premier Crus”, followed by the name of the plot from which they derive. E.g. Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques.

Grand Crus
33 appellations
2,100,000 liters 2% of production
Certain climats of certain villages are recognized as producing wines of distinctive character and exceptionally high quality. The wines from these special plots are accorded the supreme accolade “Grand Cru”. “Chambertin Grand Cru” is produced from the 13 hectare plot of that name within the village of Gevrey-Chambertin.

The vineyards of Burgundy cover an area of approximately 23,000 hectares, divided into five main growing regions. From North to South, the regions are:

a. Chablis;
b. Côte de Nuits;
c. Côte de Beaune;
d. Côte Challonais; and
e. Côte Mâconnais.

Pouilly-sur-Loire and Pouilly-Fumé (to the west) are not included in the Burgundy wine appellations, but have 1000 hectares of Sauvignon grapes known as Blanc fumé. The wines are perfumed, spicy and very nice to drink.

The Chablis vineyards cover some 4,000 hectares and take in 20 or so “communes”. The grape grown here, on chalky-clay soils, is Chardonnay and it yields a variety of wines arranged into four categories, according to quality:

a. Chablis Grand Cru;
b. Chablis Premier Cru;
c. Chablis; and
d. Petit Chablis.

The main towns are Auxerre and Chablis.

Close by the Chablis Vignoble are the Auxerrois, Tonnerois, Vézelay, and Côte Saint-Jacques vineyards that cover some 1300 hectares. This area produces a full range of white, red and rosé burgundies.

La Côte de Nuits stretches in a narrow east-facing band along hillsides between Marsannay and Corgolin. The prestige of the Côte de Nuits’ great wines has earned it the title of the “Champs-Elysées of Burgundy”. This is the area of the Pinot Noir grape and covers some 3000 hectares. All the Grand Crus of Burgundy (except Corton) have their home in this countryside. Further back on the hillslopes of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits there are some 550 hectares which yield fine Burgundies which are renowned for their balance and aromatic qualities.

Main town is Nuits Saint Georges, and the area is immediately south of Dijon.

Beaune is generally recognized as the wine capital of Burgundy. Côte de Beaune covers some 5000 hectares and extends from the village of Ladoix-Serrigny to the hillslopes of Maranges. Variations in the terroir (the native soil from which a wine derives its special character) makes these wines diverse in character, but high in quality – full, harmonious thoroughbred reds to great rich white wines that are complex and subtle.

Côte Chalonnaise is south of Beaune and produces great reds and whites from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes over some 4000 hectares.

Mâconnais is the southernmost and largest of Burgundy wine regions (6500 hectares). Chardonnay yields great white wines, fresh and fruity, with subtle and captivating bouquets. Mâconnais reds are produced from the Gamay grape, and have a deep red color and red-fruit perfume.

Four factors are essential for the production of great wines:

soil for character –
grapes for class;
right climate for personality;
the human element for style.


The wine-growing soils of Burgundy are a huge mosaic made up of small plots of vines, often marked off and enclosed by stone walls. Each “terroir” has its own character, depending on composition, altitude and exposure – factors that can vary significantly within the space of a few metres. Each plot is unique, and this uniqueness is reflected by nuances of taste and aroma.

The Grape variety or “cépage” has to be chosen in such a way as to give the fullest expression to the “terroir” on which it grows. Despite its huge diversity of wines and soils, Burgundy has mainly concentrated on two grape varieties – the Chardonnay grape for whites and the Pinot Noir for reds. Aligoté and Gamay are the main less well known grape varieties grown in Burgundy.

Climate is nature’s way of putting the finishing touches to the personality of a wine. Burgundy enjoys a continental climate with dry, cold winters and hot, sunny summers. The Pinot and Chardonnay grapes ripen well and are perfectly at home in these conditions. There will be differences between different vintages, depending on the weather for that particular year. The difference in climate between different parts of the region contributes to the endless diversity of Burgundy’s wines.

The Human Element. There are three stages in the making of wine:
the cultivation of the grapes;

vinification (transformation of grapes to wine); and

“élevage” – caring for the new wine until it is ready for drinking.

Each stage is a combination of natural processes and human intervention. These stages require knowledge, discernment and flair. As the wine making process is not a purely mechanical process, but one requiring human judgement, the results will not be standardized or entirely predictable. There are as many different wines as there are wine-makers. The name of the wine-grower on the label can count for as much as the appellation of the wine. The name on the label is the wine-grower’s signature, and the consumer’s guarantee of quality and authenticity.

Many Burgundian estates are family concerns of modest size (4-5 ha on average). Very often the vineyard worker is the wine-grower himself. He produces and sells part or all his harvest as bottled wine. Generally, the range of wines will be limited to the appellations of his own district.

There are 4500 individual wine-growing estates in Burgundy.

Don’t wait for that special occasion to broach a bottle of Burgundy. This is a pleasure you can enjoy without fuss and at any time.

Surprise yourself and your friends with a delightful voyage of discovery among wines that you will soon learn to recognize as an indispensable accompaniment to life’s best moments.

Extracted from from Vineyards to Cellars, Bureau des Vins de Bourgogne, 2000, and
An Invitation to Burgundy, Bureau Interprofessionel des Vins de Bourgogne, 2000